Gigi makes us giddy

Gigi1Gigi Hadid. Need I say anymore.? This gorgeous being is the epitomy of beauty. Taking after her Dutch mother in both looks and in the modelling world, no wonder so many young girls want to look and be like her. As a makeup artist  I get asked a lot to replicate her beauty look. I love that it’s fresh, beautiful and fashion forward. No massive smokey eye here! It’s all about highlighting and contouring with neutral colours. For me to replicate this look my process would be this.

For skin I would mix some Kryolan Shimmering event foundation (which is a highlighter) with a silicone based foundation like Face Atelier, Makeup Forever or Cinema Secrets. Using a silicone based foundation keeps the foundation looking dewy all day long without the need to powder, prime or the need for a concealer.

For the eyes I would use an eyeshadow primer. My favourite is Urban Decay. It doesn’t go on dry or crack on the lids. Once that has set I would then apply a satin finish eyeshadow along the colour lines of champagne, copper, goldy pinks or nude. Keep it to the mobile lid to really open up the eyes. For any contouring around the eye, keep it matte so it doesn’t look like you have a bruised eye! So using a terracotta or warm brown will really make blue/green/hazel eyes pop! If you have brown eyes I would use a grape colour like Eggplant from Ben Nye. My absolute favourite eyeshadow palettes are from Viseart! I have every one of them and cannot wait until more come out! Another favourite is the Urban Decay naked palettes. They can be sometimes too glittery, but if you use the matte viseart over the top they create a satin sheen finish which just makes my heart flutter! I have become obsessed with Stila waterproof eyeliner pencils. They are incredibly soft and waxy to use allowing you to smudge right where you need to. Work in smaller areas around the lash line so it doesn’t set too quickly.

I would line the inner eye with MAC Concealer pencils to really open it up. Finish off with your favourite mascara. Mine right now is NARS audacious! It is extremely black. It isn’t waterproof though so if you want something more long wearing I do highly recommend Max Factor false lash effect. Before your lash application has dried, apply your favourite set of false lashes. If you are keeping the look simple you could go for a double lash look which is very popular right now. Alternatively if you are keeping the look subtle you could try Cha Cha Cha from ModelRock lashes. My absolute favourite lash company to work with!

Gigi2For cheeks you aren’t wanting to contour like the Kardashians! It’s about keeping it fresh and highlighted rather than heavily outlined. NARS would have to have the best collection of blushes to use. I have so many! And do mix more than one depending on my clients skin tone. Also hourglass have a beautiful range of glowing cheek colours. Highlight the top of your cheek bone with something like MAC soft n gentle or hourglass ambient light. You could even use this through the brow bone lightly.

For lips I would keep it matte. My favourite range of matte lipsticks right now are the new range from modelrock. They are not drying at all and incredibly long lasting!

For brows run through a brow powder such as MAC or Anastasia Beverley Hills in a light feathering motion. You want to keep it as natural as possible. I’m over all those PERFECT brow shapes right now. It’s not real. Keep it real guys! Finish off with a brow gel to keep them in place.

The camera sees more than you do!

Eye&LipWhen applying makeup for fashion shoots or beauty photography it is paramount to be precise…unless of course you want to invoke fits of rage from your photographer later when he or she is sitting in photoshop needed to retouch sloppy work.

Often when makeup is applied we do it in natural light which by its very nature is quite soft.  The downside is that is also hides any flaws.  Once the makeup is hit with a studio flash things become quite different.  For one, the studio light has a far greater intensity than the light you probably did the makeup under.  Additionally, the cameras used by most professional fashion and beauty photographers these days resolve an incredible amount of detail.  Once you combine the two you will find that suddenly badly blended edges, fallout from mascara brushes and crooked lipstick will stick out like massive beacons of makeup-incompetence.

This doesn’t just apply to beauty photography but also full length fashion photography.  Don’t fall into the trap of thinking a designer handbag or 6″ heels will distract the viewer from a wonky cat-eye or a rushed blend job.  As mentioned above, photography in 2015 will see this detail and even though on instagram it may fade into oblivion, make it a habit to work as if it would go on a billboard.

Speaking to Alex Pott, a Melbourne Photographer who shoots beauty and fashion regularly about his number 1. makeup turn-off:

“My biggest pet-peeve is clumpy lashes.  From behind the camera it’s slightly harder to pick up and it requires close inspection.  I can’t stand lashes clumped up with mascara because the makeup artist was too rushed to brush them out.  Retouching lashes and often having to re-create them takes time, and often more time than it would have taken by just doing it right in the first place.”

Before any photography begins, check your model closely, open eyes, closed eyes.  Don’t just stand back and be happy that she looks pretty but get in close and check the individual lashes.  Look at eyebrow hairs and inspect the lip line.  Yes, it takes another minute to do this but it will save time in the end.

Another person with many years experience in the Makeup industry, Melbourne Makeup Artist Bernice has this tip:

“For beauty photography use a lupe if you must!  If you have to get in close and feel it’s a bit awkward explain what you’re doing so the model doesn’t think you’re creeping.  There is good reason to ensure your makeup is camera-ready – a term that a lot of new makeup artist don’t understand the meaning of.  It doesn’t mean it looks great on a selfie, but that it holds up to a close-up on a high end photo that will be closely inspected by the photographer, client and ultimately the audience for whom it was shot.”

All this applies to colour consistency with foundations, symmetry in your makeup and having some understanding of the photography process.  All these things make a difference between makeup, and professional “camera ready” makeup.

 

 

 

Lash Lingo

As a Makeup Artist in Melbourne I get a lot of questions and interest in false lashes. There are some amazing styles out there now that it would be pretty hard to end up with drag queen lashes! My favourite brand is from Model Rock Lashes. The amount of styles they have to suit every eye shape and every event, you can’t go wrong!

False lashes are such a beautiful addition to finish off a makeup look. There are short half-length ones for people that are trying out for the first time and then you have the more vivacious ones for the adventurous!

One thing I do recommend is purchasing a glue that is separate from what can be provided with cheaper brands. They are not usually that great a quality and It will make you struggle more with putting lashes on. I do recommend Duo lash glue though. You can either swab a small amount on your measured lashes or let it get tacky or I find putting a small dot on the back of my hand until it becomes tacky and run my lashes through it.

The beauty about lashes is that they are re-usable. So if you get it wrong, just take them off and try again! To keep them retaining their shape, keep your packaging that they come in so you can take them off at the end of the night (gently!) and put back in the pack. They can be easily cleaned with a cotton tip and some makeup remover to remove any mascara or eyeshadow residue.

So, order some different sizes, put on some makeup and have some fun!

 

Dewy Makeup

One thing that I love about makeup is bringing out the natural beauty in someone.. Makeup does not need to be heavy or caked on to have that gorgeous glow.. But it can be a lot more internal than just external.

Eat lots of omega-3 fatty acids (like found in nuts and salmon) and anti-oxidants. (Antioxidants are part of the vitamins, minerals and nutrients present in foods. They are most common in plant foods with bright, distinctive colors, such as red cherries, orange carrots and purple blueberries (for instance). The most common antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E, beta carotene, selenium and lycopene). Both of these things are total radiance-boosters that work a lot faster than you might think.

WATER, PEOPLE..! Cannot begin to express it enough how much this plays with your skin.. The more you drink, the less dehydrated your skin will be..

Stop smoking.. I’m not here to lecture anyone about smoking, but working so close to people’s faces, I see the tell tale signs straight away. The pores around your nose and the crevices of your cheek to your nose get filled with black from the cigarette smoke..

 

Sometimes It feels scaly and can be hard to cover without looking like I’m spreading foundation across a piece of dry canvas.. And just overall the skin surface feels dehydrated.. I’m not even going to get into the lines it creates around your mouth and eyes as you all know about this.. So I’m trying to tell you from a makeup perspective.. So long before any other elements come into play about the signs of aging from smoking (or worse, cancers), these are the smaller problems that come up..

 

Now…. After my blabbering about how to get great skin, let’s get onto the fun stuff.!!! Makeup.!

To start, it’s always great to have a great moisturizer. My favourite at the moment is from jurilique. With alot of good quality moisturisers, it is best to pat them into the skin, rather than rubbing..

Once that has settled in, you can apply your primer. The reason why I suggest a primer for a dewy look is that there are some beautiful prism / illuminating primers out there such as the Burberry fluid base or MAC strobe cream. Depending on the level of glow you would like you can either apply it prior to your foundation, with your foundation, or after your foundation. If I use my cinema secrets which is a cake foundation I put it on prior. If I use my Burberry foundation, I mix it in together.

So assuming I’ve done foundation at this point, let’s move onto powder. I very rarely use powder on any of my applications unless absolutely necessary. In this case I like to use MAC mineralize skin finish which comes in a range of shades so choose the one that’s best for you.

Another one I love is actually from inglot. It’s a multicolor system and is great for pale to medium level skin. There are other shades to suit darker skin also.

So with the mineralize powders you want to highlight your face.. So think of where light hits.. Down your nose.. The top of your lip (Cupids bow), the tops of your cheek.. Especially around the high tops of cheeks around to the eye bone.. You could use your fingers for this application as sometimes it’s nicer if it’s buffed in rather than with a brush which could leave it looking powdery..

Next we are onto bronzing.. I’ve tried many a bronzes in my time of doing makeup. My skin can tend to throw alot of orange so I get very wary of adding more orange to it haha.. The best one to date I have found ( and will spend my money on) is NARS laguna. It definitely is a more green based bronzed which makes it extremely suitable for all skin types.. Apply your bronzer around your highlighting to accentuate. So under your cheek bone, top of your forehead, your neck..

Now that your face is done, let’s move onto the eyes.. The fun part.! For this look we obviously try to keep to neutral colours.. But the beauty about doing natural dewy looks is it doesn’t have to be your standard.. I love using pink champagnes, light olive greens, lilacs as an alternative.. It’s all about what is going to make the eyes pop!

Lips.. I love to keep the lips quite natural.. So I highlight the cupids bow (which is the gorgeous little centre part of your top lip) with either our highlighter we used earlier, or even a soft sand shimmer dust or eyeshadow. I would then use either a nude lipstick or even just a lovely natural gloss.. Nothing too shiny and nothing too sparkly.. I think it just ruins what we are going for..

Well, that’s it for my natural dewy look.! I’m sorry if the post was rather large but I do really hopes you learnt something from it.! I will work on making them smaller but still informative :) Suggestions are always welcome as to what you would like me to review or what you would like to see.!

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Product: Burberry

Burberry Burberry…. BURBERRY

OK.. So I have totally found my new makeup crush….  BURBERRY BEAUTY.. Honestly, for their first line of cosmetics, Burberry have just got it right… I’ve already written up my thoughts on their fluid base, but just yesterday I was walking through David Jones and of course wanted to check out their other products. The assistant wanted to give me a quick 15 minute makeup which of course I said yes.! I didn’t let on at all that I was a makeup artist because I truly wanted to hear her opinions and thoughts without any bias. My god… She was ROUGH..! I promise you all, all my current clients and future clients, I PROMISE I will always be gentle with your gorgeous little faces and not torture you like she did to me.! OK, now onto it..

 

Burberry Sheer Luminous Fluid Foundation

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What an amazing Product. It is as it states.. Sheer.. But mix two squirts of foundation with two squirts of the luminiser fluid base and wow, you have an amazing product.. Its definitely not a product you would use if you are wanting full coverage.. I also wouldn’t want to lose the dewiness of it by powdering down either.. So only use this if you love a light to medium/light coverage with a soft glow finish. It also has been made using a hydrating formula, containing UV filters to protect from the UV exposure.

Burberry Sheer Luminous Concealer

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Now I wasn’t a big fan of this product.. It was probably the only let down of my Burberry experience.. I found it extremely similar to the YSL touch pen in both its look and how it applies.. And I’m not a fan of that product either.. Go figure. Anyhow, I found this concealer to be a bit too heavy to place around the delicate eye area and after about 15 minutes it had started to crease and make me look older.. So yeah.. Not holding my breath on this one.

Burberry Sheer Eyeshadow

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This is one that I was truly surprised by.. I’ve got every eyeshadow brand under the sun that is available to us in Australia.. MAC.. NARS.. Gorgeous cosmetics.. Stila.. La Femme.. Inglot.. etc.. and I think there hasn’t been a time where they haven’t creased at some point.. Some crease less (MAC/Stila/Nars) than others (Inglot/La Femme). I always try to choose my eye shadows based on their pigment levels and also how powdery they are. I don’t like fallout.. Its my worst enemy.. So the less powdery, the happier I am. :) Anyhow, when I had my makeup done I received a smokey eye in the colours of Midnight Brown & Midnight Plum. Apart from her blending issues, the colour placement was nice. This was done at lunchtime.. By the time I went to remove my makeup at 10pm at night, I closely analyzed my lids for creases and was pleasantly surprised that there wasn’t one at all.! And there was no prep on my eyelid with any powders or lid primer.. It was pure concealer she used then eyeshadow. So I expected some movement.. So big thumbs up for Burberry eyeshadows. :)

Burberry ‘Eye Definer’ Eye Shaping Pencil

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Very pretty pencil to look at.. Bit sexy even.. :)  It looked nice on.. Applied a tiny bit harsh, but then again this was a makeup artist from hell on all application levels.. Other than her harsh application,  the pencil ingredients combine emollient vegetal oils, natural waxes and a high concentration of pigments that respect the fragile eye area. It is also long wearing and water resistant.. Fantastic.!

Look and feel: Amazing.. All described above

Quality: Second to none..

Value: As everything else is in Australia, so much more expensive than overseas..

Variety: Variety is quite commercial and consumer based.. But from a makeup artists point of view, the colour range would be great for your bridal kit.

Overall: LOVE.. Not many bad comments on this brand.

Would I purchase again.? Absolutely.. But in all honesty, if I can find a cheaper way of getting it, I will.. Find people overseas willing to send to you.. Better savings..

 

So thats the end of my love for Burberry.. :)  Now I just need to save my pennies to purchase all their goodies.!

Makeup in Fashion

Over the coming month we will be looking at the roles that makeup plays in different industries.  To begin with our focus will be on makeup in the fashion industry.   The looks that impact the runways, the fashion editorials and photography.  How we use it to sell what is primarily clothing and accessories but still need it to compliment, if not on occasion, tell the story.