Category Archives: Fashion

The camera sees more than you do!

Eye&LipWhen applying makeup for fashion shoots or beauty photography it is paramount to be precise…unless of course you want to invoke fits of rage from your photographer later when he or she is sitting in photoshop needed to retouch sloppy work.

Often when makeup is applied we do it in natural light which by its very nature is quite soft.  The downside is that is also hides any flaws.  Once the makeup is hit with a studio flash things become quite different.  For one, the studio light has a far greater intensity than the light you probably did the makeup under.  Additionally, the cameras used by most professional fashion and beauty photographers these days resolve an incredible amount of detail.  Once you combine the two you will find that suddenly badly blended edges, fallout from mascara brushes and crooked lipstick will stick out like massive beacons of makeup-incompetence.

This doesn’t just apply to beauty photography but also full length fashion photography.  Don’t fall into the trap of thinking a designer handbag or 6″ heels will distract the viewer from a wonky cat-eye or a rushed blend job.  As mentioned above, photography in 2015 will see this detail and even though on instagram it may fade into oblivion, make it a habit to work as if it would go on a billboard.

Speaking to Alex Pott, a Melbourne Photographer who shoots beauty and fashion regularly about his number 1. makeup turn-off:

“My biggest pet-peeve is clumpy lashes.  From behind the camera it’s slightly harder to pick up and it requires close inspection.  I can’t stand lashes clumped up with mascara because the makeup artist was too rushed to brush them out.  Retouching lashes and often having to re-create them takes time, and often more time than it would have taken by just doing it right in the first place.”

Before any photography begins, check your model closely, open eyes, closed eyes.  Don’t just stand back and be happy that she looks pretty but get in close and check the individual lashes.  Look at eyebrow hairs and inspect the lip line.  Yes, it takes another minute to do this but it will save time in the end.

Another person with many years experience in the Makeup industry, Melbourne Makeup Artist Bernice has this tip:

“For beauty photography use a lupe if you must!  If you have to get in close and feel it’s a bit awkward explain what you’re doing so the model doesn’t think you’re creeping.  There is good reason to ensure your makeup is camera-ready – a term that a lot of new makeup artist don’t understand the meaning of.  It doesn’t mean it looks great on a selfie, but that it holds up to a close-up on a high end photo that will be closely inspected by the photographer, client and ultimately the audience for whom it was shot.”

All this applies to colour consistency with foundations, symmetry in your makeup and having some understanding of the photography process.  All these things make a difference between makeup, and professional “camera ready” makeup.

 

 

 

Lash Lingo

As a Makeup Artist in Melbourne I get a lot of questions and interest in false lashes. There are some amazing styles out there now that it would be pretty hard to end up with drag queen lashes! My favourite brand is from Model Rock Lashes. The amount of styles they have to suit every eye shape and every event, you can’t go wrong!

False lashes are such a beautiful addition to finish off a makeup look. There are short half-length ones for people that are trying out for the first time and then you have the more vivacious ones for the adventurous!

One thing I do recommend is purchasing a glue that is separate from what can be provided with cheaper brands. They are not usually that great a quality and It will make you struggle more with putting lashes on. I do recommend Duo lash glue though. You can either swab a small amount on your measured lashes or let it get tacky or I find putting a small dot on the back of my hand until it becomes tacky and run my lashes through it.

The beauty about lashes is that they are re-usable. So if you get it wrong, just take them off and try again! To keep them retaining their shape, keep your packaging that they come in so you can take them off at the end of the night (gently!) and put back in the pack. They can be easily cleaned with a cotton tip and some makeup remover to remove any mascara or eyeshadow residue.

So, order some different sizes, put on some makeup and have some fun!

 

Dewy Makeup

One thing that I love about makeup is bringing out the natural beauty in someone.. Makeup does not need to be heavy or caked on to have that gorgeous glow.. But it can be a lot more internal than just external.

Eat lots of omega-3 fatty acids (like found in nuts and salmon) and anti-oxidants. (Antioxidants are part of the vitamins, minerals and nutrients present in foods. They are most common in plant foods with bright, distinctive colors, such as red cherries, orange carrots and purple blueberries (for instance). The most common antioxidants are vitamins A, C and E, beta carotene, selenium and lycopene). Both of these things are total radiance-boosters that work a lot faster than you might think.

WATER, PEOPLE..! Cannot begin to express it enough how much this plays with your skin.. The more you drink, the less dehydrated your skin will be..

Stop smoking.. I’m not here to lecture anyone about smoking, but working so close to people’s faces, I see the tell tale signs straight away. The pores around your nose and the crevices of your cheek to your nose get filled with black from the cigarette smoke..

 

Sometimes It feels scaly and can be hard to cover without looking like I’m spreading foundation across a piece of dry canvas.. And just overall the skin surface feels dehydrated.. I’m not even going to get into the lines it creates around your mouth and eyes as you all know about this.. So I’m trying to tell you from a makeup perspective.. So long before any other elements come into play about the signs of aging from smoking (or worse, cancers), these are the smaller problems that come up..

 

Now…. After my blabbering about how to get great skin, let’s get onto the fun stuff.!!! Makeup.!

To start, it’s always great to have a great moisturizer. My favourite at the moment is from jurilique. With alot of good quality moisturisers, it is best to pat them into the skin, rather than rubbing..

Once that has settled in, you can apply your primer. The reason why I suggest a primer for a dewy look is that there are some beautiful prism / illuminating primers out there such as the Burberry fluid base or MAC strobe cream. Depending on the level of glow you would like you can either apply it prior to your foundation, with your foundation, or after your foundation. If I use my cinema secrets which is a cake foundation I put it on prior. If I use my Burberry foundation, I mix it in together.

So assuming I’ve done foundation at this point, let’s move onto powder. I very rarely use powder on any of my applications unless absolutely necessary. In this case I like to use MAC mineralize skin finish which comes in a range of shades so choose the one that’s best for you.

Another one I love is actually from inglot. It’s a multicolor system and is great for pale to medium level skin. There are other shades to suit darker skin also.

So with the mineralize powders you want to highlight your face.. So think of where light hits.. Down your nose.. The top of your lip (Cupids bow), the tops of your cheek.. Especially around the high tops of cheeks around to the eye bone.. You could use your fingers for this application as sometimes it’s nicer if it’s buffed in rather than with a brush which could leave it looking powdery..

Next we are onto bronzing.. I’ve tried many a bronzes in my time of doing makeup. My skin can tend to throw alot of orange so I get very wary of adding more orange to it haha.. The best one to date I have found ( and will spend my money on) is NARS laguna. It definitely is a more green based bronzed which makes it extremely suitable for all skin types.. Apply your bronzer around your highlighting to accentuate. So under your cheek bone, top of your forehead, your neck..

Now that your face is done, let’s move onto the eyes.. The fun part.! For this look we obviously try to keep to neutral colours.. But the beauty about doing natural dewy looks is it doesn’t have to be your standard.. I love using pink champagnes, light olive greens, lilacs as an alternative.. It’s all about what is going to make the eyes pop!

Lips.. I love to keep the lips quite natural.. So I highlight the cupids bow (which is the gorgeous little centre part of your top lip) with either our highlighter we used earlier, or even a soft sand shimmer dust or eyeshadow. I would then use either a nude lipstick or even just a lovely natural gloss.. Nothing too shiny and nothing too sparkly.. I think it just ruins what we are going for..

Well, that’s it for my natural dewy look.! I’m sorry if the post was rather large but I do really hopes you learnt something from it.! I will work on making them smaller but still informative :) Suggestions are always welcome as to what you would like me to review or what you would like to see.!

Makeup in Fashion

Over the coming month we will be looking at the roles that makeup plays in different industries.  To begin with our focus will be on makeup in the fashion industry.   The looks that impact the runways, the fashion editorials and photography.  How we use it to sell what is primarily clothing and accessories but still need it to compliment, if not on occasion, tell the story.